Lipari – Discovering the sea


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From Marina Corta we move southwards making a tour of the island clockwise. We move past the flat areas which give way to high jagged hilltops. Rounding Punta Crapazza, we find the beach of Vinci, where you can swim with a view of the crags and Vulcano.
This is the nearest point to Vulcano and once Lipari and Vulcano were, perhaps, one island.

We continue towards the imposing crags, Pietra Lunga and Pietra Menalda.
This area is excellent for divers.

According to some, these immense cliffs are the ‘Planktai Petrai’ referred to by Circe to Ulysses returning home: ‘You will see high cliffs dropping sheer into the sea, battered thunderingly by the surge of Amphytryon, no ship ever escaped from here, the breakers sweep away only the wrecks of ships and bodies of men. Only one ship managed to pass by, the famous Argo.’
The reference is to the arch that the sea has created in the crag of Pietra Lunga and which commanded and still commands awe.
Near the coast the Brigghio sticks up, as high as an obelisk.

The lava promontory of Punta del Perciato forms an arch of lava through which a boat can pass.

Opposite the Perciato there are some small cliffs, called Le Formiche, with a shallow bottom, suitable for diving. We pass by high cliffs, under the mountain, and rounding Punta di Levante, we reach the beach of Valle Muria. A beautiful shingle beach for a pleasant stop.
Larger boats find good shelter here from the winds and a suitable anchorage.
Further on is Pietra del Bagno, with a stretch of coast in which there are several caves. We meet several small coves including Cala Fico, Punta del Cugno Lungo and Punta Palmeto.
It is perhaps the most beautiful stretch of coastline, with little islands, caves, sheer copper-coloured cliffs, with the mountain standing above.
There is a little sheltered beach behind La Scarpa cliff…..a secret for any readers in search of quiet spots.

From here you can visit the nearby cave called Grotta del Palmeto and the Torricelle, big magnificent crags. After the stretch of ‘sulphured’ coast, and after rounding Punta del Legno Nero, the coast becomes less steep and we meet Acquacalda and the pumice quarry, which stands out from far off, with the jetty sticking out into the sea. Further on we reach Punta della Castagna, with a beach at the foot of the high pumice walls. The white deposits accompany us for a long while, with jetties once used for loading pumice, and with a white sea bed and turquoise water because of the sediments. High up you notice the obsidian flow of the Rocche Rosse.

Passing the Campo Bianco and the beach of Papesca, we arrive at the shoreline of Canneto.

Rounding Monte Rosa, an ancient volcano which we advise visiting, we arrive at Porto Pignataro with fishing boats and yachts moored there.
We follow the coast of Marina Lunga and finally we are welcomed back by the Castle Rock.

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